Pengaruh Variasi Konsentrasi Jojoba Beads terhadap Stabilitas, Efektivitas Eksfoliasi, dan Aktivitas Antioksidan Lulur Ekstrak Daun Sirsak (Annona muricata L.)
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.57218/jkj.Vol5.Iss3.3012Kata Kunci:
aktivitas antioksidan, daun sirsak, eksfoliasi, jojoba beads, lulur herbaAbstrak
Lulur merupakan sediaan kosmetik yang berfungsi mengangkat sel kulit mati dan membantu menjaga kesehatan kulit. Ekstrak daun sirsak (Annona muricata L.) sebagai sumber senyawa antioksidan dan jojoba beads sebagai eksfoliator alami berpotensi menghasilkan sediaan kosmetik multifungsi. Penelitian ini bertujuan mengetahui pengaruh variasi konsentrasi jojoba beads terhadap karakteristik fisik, stabilitas, efektivitas eksfoliasi, dan aktivitas antioksidan lulur ekstrak daun sirsak. Penelitian dilakukan secara eksperimental laboratorium dengan memformulasikan lulur tipe minyak dalam air yang mengandung ekstrak daun sirsak 1,5% dan jojoba beads 4%, 6%, dan 8%. Evaluasi meliputi organoleptik, homogenitas, pH, viskositas, daya sebar, stabilitas enam siklus heating–cooling, iritasi menggunakan HET-CAM, efektivitas eksfoliasi menggunakan metode gravimetri tape stripping, serta aktivitas antioksidan menggunakan metode DPPH. Pengujian karakteristik fisik dan aktivitas antioksidan dilakukan tiga kali replikasi (n = 3), dengan hasil dinyatakan sebagai rerata ± standar deviasi. Ekstrak daun sirsak menunjukkan aktivitas antioksidan kuat dengan nilai IC₅₀ sebesar 27,22 ± 1,14 ppm. Uji eksfoliasi pada 34 subjek menunjukkan perbedaan signifikan antara kontrol dan formula yang mengandung jojoba beads (Z = −5,086; p < 0,001), dengan seluruh subjek menunjukkan peningkatan nilai eksfoliasi. Sebelum stabilitas, F3 dengan jojoba beads 8% memiliki inhibisi tertinggi sebesar 61,05%, kemudian menurun menjadi 41,96% setelah stabilitas. F1 dan F2 mengalami perubahan homogenitas setelah stabilitas. Formula F3 berpotensi dikembangkan sebagai lulur herbal dengan aktivitas eksfoliasi dan antioksidan.
Referensi
Behalpade, S., & Gajbhiye, S. (2022). Review Article: Skin Care With Exfoliation Process. International Journal of Current Science (IJCSPUB, 12(2).
Brito, S., Baek, M., & Bin, B.-H. (2024). Skin Structure, Physiology, and Pathology in Topical and Transdermal Drug Delivery. Pharmaceutics, 16(11), 1403. https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics16111403
Costello, L., Goncalves, K., Maltman, V., Barrett, N., Shah, K., Stephens, A., Dicolandrea, T., Ambrogio, I., Hodgson, E., & Przyborski, S. (2023). Development of a novel in vitro strategy to understand the impact of shaving on skin health: Combining tape strip exfoliation and human skin equivalent technology. Frontiers in Medicine, 10, 1236790. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmed.2023.1236790
Gad, H. A., Roberts, A., Hamzi, S. H., Gad, H. A., Touiss, I., Altyar, A. E., Kensara, O. A., & Ashour, M. L. (2021). Jojoba Oil: An Updated Comprehensive Review on Chemistry, Pharmaceutical Uses, and Toxicity. Polymers, 13(11), 1711. https://doi.org/10.3390/polym13111711
Hartati, R., Rompis, F., Pramastya, H., & Fidrianny, I. (2024). Optimization of antioxidant activity of soursop (Annona muricata L.) leaf extract using response surface methodology. Biomedical Reports, 21(5), 166. https://doi.org/10.3892/br.2024.1854
Herlambang, C. N. (2021). Development Body Scrub With Niacinamide And Jojoba Beads As Exfoliator. World Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, 10(10), 1367–1377.
Ikramina, N., Rehana, R., Prasetya, R. A., & Kurniawan, D. W. (2024). Formulation and Evaluation of Soursop (Annona muricata) Leaf Extract Nanoemulgel Against Propionibacterium acnes. Borneo Journal of Pharmacy, 7(4), 374–384. https://doi.org/10.33084/bjop.v7i4.5977
Lekjing, S., Venkatachalam, K., Charoenphun, N., & Noonim, P. (2024). Effect of Different Drying Methods on the Phytochemical and Antioxidant Properties of Soursop Leaves at Two Stages of Maturity. ACS Omega, acsomega.4c06071. https://doi.org/10.1021/acsomega.4c06071
Patole, S. P., Naikawadi, N. D., & Redasani, Dr. V. K. (2024). Revitalize Your Skin: A Comprehensive Review of Chemical peel. Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical Research and Development, 12(3), 94–101. https://doi.org/10.22270/ajprd.v11i3.1401
Purwani, A. I. H., Pramasari, N., & Lailiyah, M. (2025). Formulation and Antioxidant Activity of Liquid Soap Containing Soursop (Annona muricata L.) Leaf and Soybean (Glycine max (L.) Merr.) Seed Extracts by DPPH Assay. Journal of Herbal, Clinical and Pharmaceutical Science (HERCLIPS), 7(01), 62–75. https://doi.org/10.30587/herclips.v7i01.10700
Rahman, A. P., Liana ., & H, S. (2022). Antioxidant Face Cream Formulation of Ethanol Extract from Soursop leaves (Annona muricata L). Berkala Ilmiah Kimia Farmasi, 9(1), 1–8. https://doi.org/10.20473/bikfar.v9i1.40889
Rahrovan, S., Fanian, F., Mehryan, P., Humbert, P., & Firooz, A. (2018). Male versus female skin: What dermatologists and cosmeticians should know. International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, 4(3), 122–130. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijwd.2018.03.002
Ruiz-López, M. A., Vargas-Guerrero, B., Vargas-Radillo, J. D. J., Montalvo-González, E., Salcedo-Pérez, E., Rodriguez-Macias, R., Gurrola-Diaz, C. M., García-López, P. M., & Pizano-Andrade, J. C. (2025). Determination of Bioactive Compounds and Antioxidant Capacity in Leaf and Pulp of Annona muricata. Chemistry, 7(1), 20. https://doi.org/10.3390/chemistry7010020
Yélamos, O., Andersen, D., Pont, M., Iglesias, P., Potrony, M., Domínguez, M., Herrero, A., Alejo, B., Mateu, J., Røpke, M., Danneskiold-Samsøe, N. B., Malvehy, J., Guy, R. H., Brix, S., & Puig, S. (2023). Development and validation of a minimally invasive and image-guided tape stripping method to sample atopic skin in children. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 48(2), 80–88. https://doi.org/10.1093/ced/llac040
Zysk, W., & Trzeciak, M. (2024). Tape Stripping—Searching for Minimally Invasive Biomarkers in Atopic Dermatitis. Dermatology Practical & Conceptual, 14(2), e2024123. https://doi.org/10.5826/dpc.1402a123











